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When explorer and traveller Mike Street first went to Asmara, the capital of Eritrea, in 1995 it was scarcely with the idea of launching a crusade. But he did exactly that, so bowled over was he by the beauty of the city and the need to preserve it from unthinking development. 'I kept raving about it to my friends,' he explains. 'They said: 'Why don't you do something about it'.'