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The urban revolution of Cold War conversions is a battle in itself

The bomb-proof hangars of the RAF base at Upper Heyford in Oxfordshire can be seen from a great distance. On the skyline they look like children's toys willfully scattered about in a tantrum. Closer to, they turn into giant sun-bleached carbonated drink cans, half-buried in the ground. Altogether there are 56 of them, each named after an American fighter pilot, and each sealed up as tight as a Pharaoh's tomb.

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