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Rules of engagement: Allford stakes out his territory

Following a brief conversation with the editor at the St John restaurant in Clerkenwell (while delighting in a significant share of a whole roast suckling pig followed by a week of digesting), I now find myself embarking on a new project - this column. How appropriate it is that I was passed the baton by Will Alsop, following a chance encounter in the same venue on a different evening. I could sign off now:

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